Bicknell FC Applecross Pinot Noir
David Bicknell needs little introduction in Australian wine circles having worked for many years at de Bortoli and now at Oakridge where he was named Gourmet Traveller WINE Magazine, Winemaker of the Year in 2017.
Bicknell FC is a family winemaking project of Dave Bicknell and Nicky Harris. The project started with making random wines from interesting sites and, as they've moved through the years, getting their eye in, so to speak, they have settled into the good fortune of leasing one of those interesting sites.
The 2024 Applecross Pinot Noir is from a massal selection of clonal material planted between 1976 and 1998 at St. Andrews in the Yarra Valley. It was fermented with whole berries/whole bunches, and the élevage was in French oak barrels. This wine, a few months ahead of its market release currently, is so bright and perfumed. Rose, pistachio, graphite/petrichor, dry spice and tapenade coalesce on the palate in a rush. Pure, tightly wound and eminently focused, this is a gorgeous wine. The whole-bunch character rides high in the wine, but far from finding it distracting, I find myself attracted to it. This is super good and comes warmly recommended. 13.4% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.
95+ points, drink 2025 - 2039. Erin Larkin, The Wine Advocate.